Ann’s latest postcard from Indochina is from the city of Hue. Without further ado:
Successive Emperors built a walled Citadel on the banks of the Perfume River to celebrate their power and influence, lavishing the city of Hue with sumptuous architecture. The people of Hue even have their own cuisine: one of the Emperors commanded new and increasingly complex dishes to tickle his palate every day and the tradition lives on today with specialist Hue dishes available in all the restaurants. At best they are colorful, tiny amuse bouches made from silky rice noodles, stuffed with tiny portions of shrimps and minced pork or small crispy fajita type things hiding delicious mixtures of lightly sautéed vegetables in tamarind and lemon grass, for dipping in peanut sauce.
The Imperial Citadel, in spite of heavy fire-bombing during the Vietnam War, ranks as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Inside the citadel is the Purple Palace and inside that is the Emperor’s quarters (only open to concubines, eunuchs and the Royal Dowager Empress who had a private aerial walkway linking her palatial residence with direct access into the holy of holies). When you reach the central Palace complex – this magnificent echo of the past, with its stylized architecture built to zen principles and its gorgeous formal gardens – it’s like reaching a calm oasis to rest and fortify yourself against the hurly burly of the 21st Century, and more immediately the noise and flurry of the traffic of modern day Hue.
On the subject of hotels in Hue I took advice from an American tourist I met in the Citadel:
“As a paraplegic, Hue (and Vietnam in general), isn’t the most accessible city I’ve visited, but it’s no way the least accessible. I travel a lot and this is definitely not a real problem. On this trip, my tour guide has hired a ‘helper’ in each place we visit. I call them my Sherpas. I really like this arrangement, because although all the other guys on my tour are really happy to help with the odd steps and other accessibility glitches, this makes me feel much more independent.”
But are there steps here in the Imperial City? “Well, that’s exactly where my Sherpa comes in, he’s done this before and knows exactly how to negotiate the sites for the best”. How is accessing the boats on the Perfume River? “Yeah, we manage fine.” I did notice he had his own, really light weight, smart wheelchair.
My American friend was staying at The Imperial Hotel, overlooking the Perfume River. The Imperial has good toilet facilities and loads of room for maneuvering the wheelchair around. For showering, he found the gorgeous Imperial Spa a much better option than the room shower in his ensuite. It looks great, but doesn’t cut the mustard for a wheelchair user.
The hotel has a stunning pool area, you might want to spend a bit of time there as a break from exploring the stunning architecture of Hue, and definitely, definitely go for a room with a river view. While you are there you could go for the full royal dining experience. It sounds a bit kitsch, but you do get a chance to try the best of the exquisite Royal Hue cuisine. Decent lifts, ramps, wide open spaces, smooth marble floors and staff who can’t do enough for you all add to a happy Blue Badge experience.
Another option for Hue, with a bit more of the colonial spirit of the days of the French Protectorate, is the Saigon Morin. Rooms here are big and comfortable with big windows overlooking the river. Very stylish in a grande dame sort of way, but being an older building it’s not quite as easy on the accessibility front as the Imperial.
If you are looking for something a bit more exclusive with boutique feel have a look at award-winning Pilgrimage Village Resort, 4 km outside Hue in the forest. Faux-rustic accommodation with 2 balconies over-looking the lakes and country-side. This is 5* luxury in a country-side setting. One of the Deluxe rooms is converted for disabled guests.
This resort is high on style, exclusivity and pampering, with a spa, 2 restaurants and 3 bars. It’s somewhat geared to the honeymoon market, but with the emphasis on intimacy and simple get-away-from-it-all sophistication. This is how they describe their spa:
“Vedan literally means feeling or sensation in sanskrit. In buddhist philosophy, an awareness and concentrated focus on Vedan leads to enlightenment and the end of suffering. It is our intention to provide you with a memorable feeling or sensation that you take home with you, and remember forever in your heart. Vedan Wellness & Spa brings you an experience of spa life which we define as LUSH. (Luxurious. Unpretentious. Sustainable. Healthy)”
Eating in Hue is a bit of a gastronomic paradise, in a sort of rough and ready way. For something a bit more up-market and where presentation counts as much as taste try Les Jardins de la Carambole. It’s close to the Citadel and is the most frequently recommended restaurant in Hue. It’s got a couple of steps and no ramp and the loo facilities aren’t really Blue Badge standard, but the food is great (Vietnamese with a very Gallic accent, and traditional French with an Indochine twist).
Your hotel will of course give you a comfortable, satisfying and easy option: the food will be perfectly fine and the option of sitting on a stunning palm fringed terrace is always attractive. Both the Imperial and the Saigon Morin have several restaurants that will cater to most tastes.